Steve Nelson

It's been great to read all the emails about Ken. I shared a private note with Ruth, and now feel obliged to share a few thoughts with everyone.

For a few years Ken kept trying to get me to try ice climbing. It became a running joke between us at the gym and at pizza afterwards. I kept telling him that I had tried ice climbing once and it was a miserable experience. I am a skier in the winter and rock climb in summer. Ken kept inviting me to go ice climbing with him anyway, and one year I decided to join him just before Christmas. We went up to Canaan and he led the first pitch of the popular Bicycle route. I scrambled and clawed my way up the first steep section to where Ken was watching me on belay. He listened to my wimpering and whining, and then smiled and offered for me to lead the next pitch. I thought he was crazy, since it was only my second pitch on ice. He assured me that it was easy and well within my ability. If Ken said it was so, then it was so. So, off I went. Ken and I swapped leads all day. He led the hard stuff, and I'd play on the easy stuff. An ice climber was born on that day due to Ken's patience and coaxing.

A few weeks later, Ken and I partnered up on the Adirondacks trip. I was amazed and honored that Ken would climb with me, a newbie on ice, for a weekend in the coveted DAKS. I figured he could have teamed up with another strong climber and kicked butt on some hairy ice, but Ken seemed to be just as happy to show me the ropes. On a rainy, unseasonably warm day, we climbed Multiplication Gully. Ken threw me at the first pitch with supreme confidence, and he climbed the very thin second pitch in great style. I had a smile on my face all day. The next day was extremely cold (-10 deg F), and we climbed at Cascade Pass. Ken led a climb (Sister's Right, Grade 4+) that I can only describe as amazingly hard. The ice was almost impenetrable, and Ken managed to get screws in somehow. He always cursed at a hard spot, and boy was there a lot of cursing going on during that pitch. Trying to follow him on it brought many of the same word choices to mind as I tried desperately to get up the frozen monster. After getting through the crux section, my hands hurt so bad that I had to stop and let the blood rush back in. The pain was excruciating, and I was a bit embarassed by the delay. Ken said it was normal and happens to all ice climbers. I finished off the pitch with a new found respect for Ken's climbing ability as well as his graciousness.

I climbed ice a few more times with Ken that season and was always amazed at how he could climb something that seemed almost impossible to me. We had great fun, and I climb ice today because Ken coaxed me into it and took the time to teach me how to swing an axe. Last year, Alex and I climbed Positive Thinking in the Adirondacks. Afterwards, we talked about Ken and what a great influence he was on our climbing. Ken had first taken Alex on the same climb several years earlier. I think he would have been pleased with our efforts that day. Thanks to Ken, we managed it safely and in good style.

I have missed climbing with Ken over the past few years. Now, I will miss it infinitely more. I will be thankful, though, for the opportunity he gave me to share some precious time with him.